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manual abstract
Make a 3/64" cut by setting the lever halfway between “1” and “2”. The plane has one other operating adjustment - the angle of the apron to the plane shoe. This adjustment consists of two graduated hinges held by wing nuts (E) Fig. 6. Both hinges should be on the same angle markings before the nuts are tightened. D E Fig. 6 10 HOW TO USE THE PORTA-PLANE® MAKING THE CUT To provide maximum control of the tool, hold the planer with the right hand on the handle and the left hand on the front of the motor housing (Fig. 7). Rest the thumb on the depth adjusting lever and wrap the fingers around the motor housing. The position of the plane on the work is important in obtaining optimum results. Hold the plane shoe and the apron firmly against the work. At the start of the cut, place the pressure on the front shoe. After the plane has entered the work, put pressure on the rear shoe. Follow through with the plane to the end of the cut and continue the rear pressure until the cut is complete. BEVEL CUTTING The plane may be quickly set for outside bevel cuts from 0 degrees to 15 degrees or inside bevel cuts from 0 degrees to 45 degrees. Make the bevel adjustment by loosening the two wing nuts (A) Fig. 8 on the apron hinges and tilting the apron (B) until the pointers on the hinges line up with the desired angle graduations. Tighten the wing nuts (A) securely. The beveled cuts are made the same as regular right-angle cuts. More than one pass may be necessary, depending on APRON STOP STUD The apron stop stud is located directly behind the front hinge of the apron (A) Fig. 9 and on the underside of the motor housing (B) Fig. 9, and is held in place by a screw. This stud is used to produce exact settings of the apron quickly for repeated cuts of the same angle. Fig. 7 the width of the bevel. Keep the plane shoe and the apron pressed firmly against the work during the entire cut. Make each cut for the full length of the board. B A Fig. 8 Select the required setting of the apron and lock it in place with the thumb screws (A) Fig. 8. With a screwdriver, turn the screw and release the stud. Move the stud until the head rests against the side of the apron (Fig. 9). Tighten the screw. After this procedure, the apron can be adjusted to smaller angles and quickly re-set to the original angle by simply moving it back against the apron stop BA Fig. 9 stud. 11 FITTING A DOOR Carefully fit doors to the jambs with ample clearance to ensure free movement. The 126 Plane is ideally suited for this job. New doors delivered from the supplier have squared edges along two sides (stiles), and lugs extending at the top and bottom beyond the rails. Plane the hinged side with a slight angle to the inside edge. Measure the width of the opening at top and bottom and transfer the dimensions to the door, marking from the hinge stile. Plane the lock stile 1/8" narrower than the door opening and with a bevel of about 10 degrees to the inside. Cut and plane the top and bottom rails 90 degrees. Remove all sharp edges on the door with a 1/64" cut and smooth with sandpaper. PLYWOOD EDGES One major difficulty in finishing plywood is planing a smooth edge without breaking out the cross-grain ply at the corners. A piece of scrap can be tacked or clamped to the end so that the plane can run out its complete cut. The plane will give the best finish cut on all sizes and types of plywood, provided small amounts of material are removed with each pass. Set the depth graduation for only a slight advance each time a pass is made. When approaching the end of the pass, move the plane very slowly and put all the pressure on the rear shoe. PLANING AN UNEVEN BOARD The fitting edge is not straight on many doors, screens, storm windows, baseboards, or other long edges. Mark the line carefully with a pencil and notice where the greatest amount of material must be removed. Start the plane with the depth adjusting lever set at “0” well behind the high spot. As the plane advances, advance the lever to cut deeper. When the high spot is passed, turn the lever back. Work down the length of the board or door edge working carefully to the pencil line. A true fit can be accomplished by this method provided the bow or bend is not too great. Uneven boards can have straight edges by working down high spots first and by cutting only 1/64" of material with each pass. ADJUSTMENTS ADJUSTING THE DEPTH-ADJUSTING LEVER TENSION You should be able to move the tension lever easily with your thumb, but it should also be tight enough that it would be difficult to move it unintentionally. DISCONNECT THE TOOL FROM THE POWER SOURCE! Tighten or loosen the nut (A) Fig. 10 at the front of the depth adjusting lever until the right tension is found. Be sure that the lever is not too loose and can hold its setting for the full length of cut. Fig. 10 A 12 ADJUSTING THE CUTTER-ADJUSTING LEVER TENSION Each time the blade is sharpened, the plane must be reset to “0” so that the depth adjusting lever can accurat...