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manual abstract
See Figure 5. CU'I-rERAT ZERODEPTHOF CUT Fig. 6 • Position your router so that the cutter can extend below the subbase for desired depth setting, See Figure 7. DEPTH INDICATOR RING BASE INDICATOR POINT Fig. 8 The depth of cut is readable from both sides of the depth adjusting ring. There is a depth indicator ring and indicator point on both sides of the depth adjusting ring. The bottom ring is convenient when using your router mounted to a router table. The indicator point on the base should also be used when using your router mounted to a router table. The depth indicator rings are identical parts. Therefore, when you have your router mounted upside clown on a router table, you set depth of cut by reading the scale differently. Set the cutter at zero depth of cut, rotate depth indicator ring to desired depth of cut on the scale, then turn depth adjusting ring back to zero depth of cut and lock clamping lever securely. CUI"FEREXTENDED BELOWSUBBASE Fig. 7 • Turn the depth adjusting ring to obtain the desired depth of cut. The distance the cutter moves can be read on the depth adjusting ring. Each mark on the depth adjusting ring indicates 1/64 inch change in depth setting. One indicator point is located on front of the motor housing, the other one is located on the base. • Lock clamping lever, securing depth adjusting ring to motor housing and base. 9 ROUTING See Figure 9. Fig.9 For ease of operation and maintaining proper control, your router has two handles, one on each side of the router base. When using your router hold it firmly with both hands as shown in figure 9. _. WARNING: Keep a firm grip on router with both hands at all times. Failure to do so could result in loss of control leading to possible serious injury. Turn router on and let motor build to its full speed, then gradually feed cutter into workpiece. Remain alert and watch what you are doing. Do not operate router when fatigued. RATE OF FEED IMPORTANT: The whole "secret" of professional routing and edge shaping lies in making a careful setup for the cut to be made and in selecting the proper rate of feed. PROPER FEEDING The right feed is neither too fast nor too slow. It is the rate at which the bit is being advanced firmly and surely to produce a continuous spiral of uniform chips --without hogging into the wood to make large individual chips or, on the other hand, to create only sawdust. If you are making a small diameter, shallow groove in soft, dry wood, the proper feed may be about as fast as you can travel your router along your guide line. On the other hand, if the bit is a large one, the cut is deep or the wood is hard to cut, the proper feed may be a very slow one. A cross-grain cut may require a slower pace than an identical with grain cut in the same workpiece. There is no fixed rule. You will learn by experience from practice and use. The best rate of feed is determined by listening to the sound of the router motor and by feeling the progress of each cut. Always test a cut on a scrap piece of the workpiece wood, beforehand. FORCE FEEDING Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites as it revolves. "Bigger bites" mean bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which could result in the router motor becoming overloaded. Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM of the bit can become so slow--and the bites it has to take so large --that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than fully cut off), with resulting splintering and gouging of the workpieee. See Figure 10. 10 tn addition, it is more difficult to control a router when TOO FAST TOOSLOW Fig. 10 Your router is an extremely high-speed tool (25,000 RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too fast) feed. Three things that cause "force feeding" are bit size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the router should be moved forward. If the wood is very hard, knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed still more. You can always detect "force feeding" by the sound of the motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and stronger as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be noticeably increased. TOO SLOW FEEDING It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast enough to take a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away sawdust-like particles. Scraping produces heat, which can glaze, burn, or mar the cut --in extreme cases, can even overheat the bit so a...